Stove connections

[ians]

Customers calls and request a stove connection ... no problem ... you carry a piece of 6 mm twin+e in your van specifically for stove connections.

You get to site and find a piece of sprag hanging off the wall wire 2 x 6mm wires and a 4 mm wire and the isolator switched off.

Easier than you thought ... actually not really .. .the new stoves (I havent connected a stove in 10 years) dont have a 20 mm hole at the back for the sprag. The new stoves have a piece of plastic with a clamp for the twin+E.

No problem ... remove the sprag and house wire and pull in the twin+e, connect the isolator and at the terminal block, secure the piece of pvc sprag to the back of the stove with a saddle ... drill a hole in the wall for the hook and bingo done ... if only jobs were that easy.

First you find some twat have cut all the tiles to the same size as the isolator and grouted the isolator into the wall

[ians]

Then you are off to the next job because its stove week.

This one is a little different ... there is a 50 amp isolator with a 6mm wire and 40 amp breaker.


this time its a hob and undercounter oven ... thats were the challenges begins.

Do you remove the 6mm wire and pull in a 4mm for the hob and a 2.5 mm for the undercounter and hope nobody checks it while doing the test reports ( chances are nobody will check so you should be ok). or

Do you pull 2 x 4mm wires from the isolator and down grade the 40 amp to 32 amps. or

Do you leave the 6 mm and the 40 amp breaker in the board and fit a junction box under the counter and run 6 mm tails to the hob and under counter ... the new stoves dont allow space for 6 mm wire. or

No there is no option to run 4 mm twin from the DB, fit 2 x surface mount isolators and run twin to the hob and oven.

[Dylboy]

6.16.3.2.3 A cooking appliance circuit may also supply one socket-outlet if
the rating of the socket-outlet does not exceed 16 A and if the following are all
contained in one control unit (see also 6.15.4.1):
a) the socket-outlet;
b) an earth leakage protection device including overcurrent protection for
protecting the socket-outlet; and
c) the switch-disconnector required for the cooking appliance (see 6.16.1).

There is the above but would mean changing the supply to a ELU with overload...

But why not leave the 6mm? Why change to the 4mm ? I may be miss reading hahah.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

[ians]

Have you tried to connect 6 mmm wire to a new hob then loop it to the oven or visa versa ... gone are the days where you could terminate the sprag into the oven with plenty space to fit another piece of sprag to supply the hob.

The new stoves have a cheap crappy plastic terminal box ... not suitable for 2 x 6 mm twin cables.

[Dylboy]

Ahhhh ok I see hahaha.

Similar to the GU10 downlogjt connectors.... forget about a looping and out at fitting with that stuff hahaha.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

[Derlyn]

Then you are off to the next job because its stove week.

This one is a little different ... there is a 50 amp isolator with a 6mm wire and 40 amp breaker.


this time its a hob and undercounter oven ... thats were the challenges begins.

Do you remove the 6mm wire and pull in a 4mm for the hob and a 2.5 mm for the undercounter and hope nobody checks it while doing the test reports ( chances are nobody will check so you should be ok). or

Do you pull 2 x 4mm wires from the isolator and down grade the 40 amp to 32 amps. or

Do you leave the 6 mm and the 40 amp breaker in the board and fit a junction box under the counter and run 6 mm tails to the hob and under counter ... the new stoves dont allow space for 6 mm wire. or

No there is no option to run 4 mm twin from the DB, fit 2 x surface mount isolators and run twin to the hob and oven.

@ Ians

I always have a shroud and 2 of 20Amp din rail breakers handy for those jobs.
6mm or 4mm into top of breakers. 2,5mm FTE from each breaker ... 1 to hob, other to oven.
Makes for easy connecting on those small terminals provided on oven and hob.
Mount shroud under counter in a convenient spot.

Derlyn

[GCE]

@ Ians

I always have a shroud and 2 of 20Amp din rail breakers handy for those jobs.
6mm or 4mm into top of breakers. 2,5mm FTE from each breaker ... 1 to hob, other to oven.
Makes for easy connecting on those small terminals provided on oven and hob.
Mount shroud under counter in a convenient spot.

Derlyn

In my opinion you would be creating a Sub DB - The DB would then need to comply and have an isolator , be accessible , comply to the heights for a residential install .

[Derlyn]

@GCE
If one were to use a small enclosure with 2 fuse holders and 20 Amp glass fuses, would that also be seen as a sub db?

Is there a way of reducing the conductor size without creating a sub db ?

Derlyn

[ians]

What I found when I arrived on site ... a piece of pvc sprag with 6 mm wires (open) with a connector block and a 2.5 mm twin wire feeding the hob.

Something to consider ... in the past if the switches were mounted on the oven ... there would be connectors mounted on the top of the oven with female plugs ... then there would be loose wires with a male connector ... in the space between the hob and the oven ...everything is open wiring ... my question then would be why did I waste my time connecting all the wires in a junction box.

In saying that ... in the past the oven and stove were secured to the counter and cupboard with the use of a tool ... so if I secure the oven and hob ... the space between the oven and hob because part of the fixed appliances ?

[ians]

@GCE
If one were to use a small enclosure with 2 fuse holders and 20 Amp glass fuses, would that also be seen as a sub db?

Is there a way of reducing the conductor size without creating a sub db ?

Derlyn

This is what I considered doing ... because working with a 6 mm wire and in a new hob or oven is ridiculous.

I also thought of mounting a galvanised box to the oven connect the 6 mm from the isolator into a one of the those fused terminals then 4mm from there to the hob and 2.5 mmm to the oven.