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Recessed Downlights: Small Fixture, Big Headache
SANS 10142‑1 is clear: connections must be safe, insulated, and properly terminated. Lampholders are for the luminaire, not for splicing cables. Metal parts with an earth terminal? Always earth them, even if they’re technically “out of reach.”
The result: installations that are frustrating, unsafe, and often fail inspection. Good design, proper connectors, and attention to detail aren’t optional—they should be mandatory.
I’ve been extremely busy trying to keep up with builders over the past few months, and every project presents the same challenges:
This issue proves that the regulations and control over equipment sold in South Africa are not in the interest of public safety.
Here’s how I’ve been fixing many of non-compliant installations.
The lampholder should be part of the recessed downlight: pop-riveted to the ring, or with an earth point or tail permanently attached.
I’ve only ever come across one installation where the lampholder was properly attached to the spring.
Do you fail an installation if the red and black wires are exposed or compressed in the strain relief ?
SANS 10142‑1 is clear: connections must be safe, insulated, and properly terminated. Lampholders are for the luminaire, not for splicing cables. Metal parts with an earth terminal? Always earth them, even if they’re technically “out of reach.”
The result: installations that are frustrating, unsafe, and often fail inspection. Good design, proper connectors, and attention to detail aren’t optional—they should be mandatory.
I’ve been extremely busy trying to keep up with builders over the past few months, and every project presents the same challenges:
- Lampholders being used as junction points for two twin-and-earth cables.
- It’s difficult enough to attach a poorly designed lampholder to the side of a downlight with 1.0 mm˛ twin-and-earth. Then people use 1.5 mm˛ twin-and-earth and double it up—you wonder why 95% of domestic installations with downlights fail.
- Strain relief compressing single-insulated wires, or not used at all.
- Lampholders not attached to the downlight, just loose in the roof space.
This issue proves that the regulations and control over equipment sold in South Africa are not in the interest of public safety.
Here’s how I’ve been fixing many of non-compliant installations.
- Check that the breaker is only rated at 10 A, then label the circuit to indicate that 1.0 mm˛ wire is used—even though the supply from the DB is 1.5 mm˛.
- Fit a junction box (4×2 or 4×4) in the middle of the roof and install a conduit from the box to the light switch (to future-proof the installation).
- Pre-wire all lampholders with tails long enough to reach the junction box using 1.0 mm˛ twin-and-earth.
- Clip the lampholder into the spring as designed—even though it’s a poor design.
The lampholder should be part of the recessed downlight: pop-riveted to the ring, or with an earth point or tail permanently attached.
I’ve only ever come across one installation where the lampholder was properly attached to the spring.
Do you fail an installation if the red and black wires are exposed or compressed in the strain relief ?
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