Basic insulation i.e red and black cables

[Dylboy]

Hello

This is mainly from downlights.

When they connect in a choc block fitting with the tiny black box there is often the red and black basic insulation sticking out.

In UK they mark it as a C3 as not readily accessible as it is in a roof space... Caviet is if people can walk etc can be a C2.

Now when you see this when doing a CoC do you fail it for having the basic insulation on show ?

Then second question has anyone got a better solution to doing downlights.... When you have to loop in and loop out at a downlight it is next to impossible to not have the basic insulation showing as there is no space at all....

It takes me so so long to do a light as the terminal jointing box is so effing small and then I have to also make it bigger at the cut outs to fit the sheath of 2 cables and quite frankly I feel the GU10 holders sold should be illegal for being so impractical.

Looking for tips or advice on how to solve this issue please haha.

Below is an image of the ones I speak of.

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[Derlyn]

This is my take.
I will not fail it if the red and black insulation is prutruding from that specific fitting.

As you say, when looping, it is virtually impossible to get 2 FTE cables into that enclosure without exposing the red and black insulation.

If that downlight happens to be in an older installation with open wiring, then the whole attic is gonna be full of red and black insulation.

The reason for having the connection in an enclosure is so that the connection cannot be touched. If that is attained, then its a pass from me.

You are correct about those specific fittings. The cover can be opened without the use of a tool. They shouldn't be sold, but then again the list of things that shouldn't be sold is a long list.

[Isetech]

Fit a 4x2 or 4x4 extension box and do the connection in the box, so that only one cable is connecting at the light, or fit a 3 or 4 way box.

The job I am busy, all the lights have 2 x twin+e cables connected above the black terminal box, so all the red, black and earth wires are twisted together.

I have had numerous inspection reports fail due to "exposed wires".

Where you can see the 2 screws is where the white sheath of the twin+e must be secured, not the red and black wires. Its a tricky one because literally every site I visit has exposed wires.

Use 1 mm wire and slide a piece of heat shrink over the exposed red and black wires.

[Isetech]

The lamp holders that we buy have a screw securing the the cover.

You could fit a cable tie to secure the lid, which would require a tool to remove.

[GCE]

We use 5 amp socket with a cordset

[Andrew_van_Zyl]

What is your opinion on cutting off the chocolate box enclosure that's supplied with those lights and using a Ripbox to join the light wires to the TFE inside the box? Enough ports to accommodate the loops.

[Dylboy]

Seen and thought of that box too

Initially I did not see a SANS stamp but not sure if that stuff is even required anymore ????

Anyway I would like to try it

Edit: also not sure if that box can fit through the standard dowlight cutout.


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[Andrew_van_Zyl]

Seen and thought of that box too

Initially I did not see a SANS stamp but not sure if that stuff is even required anymore ????

Anyway I would like to try it

Edit: also not sure if that box can fit through the standard dowlight cutout.


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I haven't had a problem yet. I downloaded this info - it's got the specs and certifications. Just expensive but what isn't nowdaysRIPBOX_V1.pdf

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