Installation of 220V downlights

[Rifrug]

Hi Leecatt,
“The attached picture shows a downlight connected in an improper way, in my opinion.”
I agree with you, Those connections just look bad and I have lost lots of job’s because I quote to fit a junction box with a decent connection, where some guys will accept that. But I have to follow certain strict standards on the projects we work on otherwise my clients who have their own master electricians will make us re-do those connections in a proper way.

[Rifrug]

Also we are not allowed the winding up of earth wires like on that picture, as our installations needs to be done in a manner that maintenance can be done in future without cutting off of wires. It is common practice for people to twirl wires especially in DB boards. But if you need to disconnect one cable you end up cutting of other cables earths as well.

[SparkyScott]

You get two kinds of those joint boxes,one is for a joint and the other is smaller and used for lights,very handy with the right connectors aswell.

[Leecatt]

You get two kinds of those joint boxes,one is for a joint and the other is smaller and used for lights,very handy with the right connectors aswell.

Where are you getting the boxes from? I have made contact with the agents today only to find out that the boxes are sold only in the UK.

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[ians]

One of the companies i do work for could make a tool and mass produce these boxes...or one designed by electricians for electricians
Would anyone be interested?

[ians]

You get two kinds of those joint boxes,one is for a joint and the other is smaller and used for lights,very handy with the right connectors aswell.

Could you not ship a box full to us? I see you are in Scotland.

[ians]

Those wago connectors are the best thing since sliced bread... but at a premium price... i would hate to use them and end up on Carte blanche for ripping customers off it is much cheaper to twist and tape... without a box in a roof space where no junction boxes are required

[Leecatt]

Those wago connectors are the best thing since sliced bread... but at a premium price... i would hate to use them and end up on Carte blanche for ripping customers off it is much cheaper to twist and tape... without a box in a roof space where no junction boxes are required

Really? I don't think so my friend

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[SparkyScott]

I could possibly do that.

[SparkyScott]

What about click flow connectors?

[Leecatt]

What about click flow connectors?

Are those available in South Africa? I also came across this from Hager but I don't know if it's available in South Africa or neither

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[Leecatt]

Are those available in South Africa? I also came across this from Hager but I don't know if it's available in South Africa or neither

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Well a friend of mine has found the following connector box. It is 65mm in diameter so I'm not sure if it will fit into a standard hole made for a downlight, what is the standard cut out size?
The thing I'm not to happy about is that the method of holding the cable secure is a rubber seal, one on each off the four entries, which is cut in half and one half is in the top of the connector box, and that comes together with the second half, which is mounted in the other half of the connector box.
There doesn't appear to be much protection against stain on the cable but in reality, how much strain is there when using a pvc push in gland with no glue and finger - tightened.
Here is the link to the manufacturer, SA product nogal, and a picture
https://ripbox.co.za/

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[ians]

I would hate to try connect more than 2 cables into the rip box.

[Derlyn]

Saw the rip box at ARB.

They cost more than double the price of a GU10 lamp holder with bracket and block, so what's the point.

Another thing. If you secure the rip box with a screw, make your connection inside and pop on the lid, you ain't gonna be able to open it again, unless you break it in the process. There's no way you gonna get a screwdriver into the slot to twist the lid open.

Not for me, thank you

Cheers and peace out ... Derek

[Leecatt]

Saw the rip box at ARB.

They cost more than double the price of a GU10 lamp holder with bracket and block, so what's the point.

Another thing. If you secure the rip box with a screw, make your connection inside and pop on the lid, you ain't gonna be able to open it again, unless you break it in the process. There's no way you gonna get a screwdriver into the slot to twist the lid open.

Not for me, thank you

Cheers and peace out ... Derek

The point is that the light fitting you mentioned is fitted with a connection box and not a junction box. Pictures attached.
Even the connection box on the fitting mentioned has no way of terminating the cable on the sheathing as required by SANS.

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